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Scroll down for the latest NEWS on Pinot Noir
Taste of the Grape: Pinot Noir
Cabernet Sauvignon traveled with ease from Bordeaux to California’s warmer valleys, where it
thrives in sunshine. However, except for a few pockets, Pinot Noir seems to be more at home
up north in Oregon, where the long, cool growing season allows the Pinot Noir fruit flavors to
develop slowly. Pinot Noir ripened quickly on the hot California valley floors tends to be flat
and uninteresting.
Less pigmented than most red grapes, Pinot Noir has a brick-orange cast rather than a deep purple color. At its best, Pinot Noir is low in tannin and high in glycerin, and has a lively acidic backbone that gives length and focus to the typical Pinot Noir flavors of raspberries, cherries, and smoke. Such structure makes Pinot Noir a highly versatile food wine.
The Pinot Noirs from Oregon can be very Burgundian in structure and range from a light Côte de Beaune style to a richer Côte de Nuits style; they match with food accordingly. The light, clean acidity and modest tannin of typical Pinot Noir makes it suitable with all but the lightest of seafood dishes. Open one of the jammy California interpretations of Pinot Noir – from Santa Barbara or the Russian River Valley in Sonoma – in place of Merlot. You’ll find that these generously fruity and mildly acidic wines might be more enjoyable.
Perhaps the best use of Pinot Noir grapes in California is as the main component in brut rosé-style, Blanc de Noirs sparkling wines. Several of the great French Champagne houses, in order to meet growing worldwide demand, opened shop in California. Here they found that Pinot Noir, a vital component of Champagne in France, grows to full ripeness in the California sunshine. More ripeness means more color in the skin and more fruit flavors as well. When gently pressed and quickly removed from the vat, Pinot Noir skins lend a delightful “blush” of copper color to Champagne–method sparkling wine.
Decent Pinot Noir is never cheap. A good way to get to know this grape is by trying varietal-labeled Pinot Noir from the big, reputable Burgundy houses.
Most Oregonian interpretations of Pinot Noir are closer in style to their Burgundian brethren than they are to their California neighbors. Ask a reliable wine merchant for his or her suggestions for a varietally correct (yet affordable) Pinot Noir. Oregon Pinot bargains are definitely available, especially in comparison to the fabulously expensive grands crus and premiers crus of Burgundy.
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